Napa Valley

Here are some selected shots from my time in Napa Valley. I took some from my bike, but most were from the warm and dry vantage point of through my car window. I've been to Napa in conditions not unlike these before, and I always marvel when looking back through pictures at how lush everything seems. The cold and the rain make the experience of actually being there more chilling and perhaps foreboding than the pictures I took can convey. It makes perfect sense, as this precious stretch of earth must recharge every winter to produce the bounty of another summer harvest, but I am still struck by that otherwise hidden promise discoverable in some of these photos.

Prologue scene

I wish that I had more footage of the crowds. I suppose it's always a balance between recording the event for later and trying to absorb it all in the moment. Here's a 360 of the prologue, right behind the launch gate. You can somewhat see how busy the environment was with the more dedicated fans packed into pre-scoped vantage points along the course, booths set up for vending, advertising, and entertaining, teams warming up behind minimal barriers (offering up close shots like in the previous posts), and all the racers taking off to a chorus of cheering. I also love how many people are drinking coffee. When was the last time you went to a sporting event and saw so many spectators drinking coffee?

Bringing the weather home

As a brief aside from my ToC updates, I felt compelled to make note of the fact that riding conditions this morning were almost identical to those in California during the Rapha Redwoods Ride. We left at 7:00, and the rain started at 7:30. Temps were in the low 40's. We even had a puncture, as if to complete the recreation. Someone said that we were Euro for riding in such conditions. My experience is that the Euro pros wanted as little to do with this weather as I did. 

The critical difference between rides like today and the usual Saturday club ride is not actually the experience during the ride, rather it is the feeling you get when you get off the bike. Your destination has never been more comfortable, and your favorite recovery meal never tastes so good. The heat of lasting embrocation feels nearly divine. When I hammer out winter miles in the cold and rain, I get a sense of pride that seems more justified. I feel like I accomplished more today. I even feel enlightened, in a peculiar way.

Crowds

The crowds on hand at the finish of each stage were impressive. I wonder how many more would (not that they could, in some cases) have been present if the weather had been nicer. Judging by what I overheard, the fan base ranged from non-cyclists to former pro racers. Some had a comprehensive knowledge of each rider on each team, while others just knew that Lance was supposed to come by them at some point in the day (and "would somebody please point that out so I don't miss it?"). The other spectrum that I noticed was the broad age range of attendants. Most images you see of American sporting venues (read: stadium/arena sports) are of adults, and mostly men at that. In contrast, the ToC doesn't really have an "average" spectator as far as I could tell. This was especially shocking to many locals, who seemed to have underestimated the impact this event would have on their community. 

It is interesting to me that our society has seemingly changed the very nature of sports from playing (i.e. pure and natural fun) and to a product (i.e. something to pay for and consume). There is no better example than American football. It is now quite expensive to go a professional level event, prohibitively so if you want to watch the best compete for a championship. And if you're relegated to the plebeian options like the rest of us, you're pretty much stuck between paying for satellite coverage or just reading scrolling text descriptions of the action online. You can't just enjoy the game, which, with all due respect to the amazing and dedicated athletes, is just a game. Football was not conceived as a vehicle for beer advertisements, and it ultimately bears no consequences (besides those with which it is artificially impregnated). Put another way, sports should be ends in themselves, not means to something else. 

Back to the race. It was deeply satisfying to see so many people present and taking part in the experience without having to pay a dime. The stage finish happens in the blink of an eye, but the experience extends several hours before and after. Before the race, you can walk or ride your bike around the city, talk with other fans, catch an update on the race radio, or just sip on an espresso in a cafe to warm up from the damp cold (which I recognize is not free, but well worth the small price). After the electrifying experience of a sprint finish, you can make your way behind the finish line and watch the riders catch their breath, scream out words of encouragement that have even a remote chance of making it to their ears, and then relive the finish on the big screens. For thousands of people the ToC is a chance to the very best in the world at the highest level of competition, all for the price of a free afternoon. 

Praying for the rain to stop ...

New Rapha kit

One of the perks of the Rapha Redwoods Ride was sneaking a glance at the new cycling gear set to be released this spring. There was nothing extraordinarily different or new (again, in the category of cycling gear - casual wear, on the other hand ...), but the colors schemes are significantly brighter. One obvious example is the new Netherlands country jersey. Same construction as the past few incarnations, but resplendent in Dutch national colors. The Scottish jersey is a new design, with more traditional collar and pockets. The fabric was also different from the usual sportswool, both thicker and softer wool. It is exquisite to hold, with a weight and significance that belies the legitimate functional quality of the piece. Like the rest of the lineup, Rapha expects you to ride in this jersey. The new cycling hats are clearly aimed at on and off the bike appeal with plaids and brighter colors. Also above is the new Italian knee warmer, based on the BKW white knee warmers from last fall/winter, which matches the new Italian national jersey. All said and done, the pièce de résistance was the new criterium gloves. They come in white this season, to perfectly complement my new white bar tape and saddle. Wouldn't you know that the pre-production sample fit me perfectly? 

Gustav Larsson warming up, fiercely

I love the subtle glance from Jens.

Rapha Redwoods Ride: Completed

Here are a few shots from the finish of our epic ride. We left at 7:55, and arrived by 11:45. The crew from Palo Alto Bicycles had a finish station for us stocked with fig rolls and cokes for immediate replenishment. They arranged to have a uhaul ship our bikes and gear back to the shop. We changed and walked through downtown Santa Cruz to a party hosted by Rapha for us at a wine bar on the finish line. After the completion of the stage, we finished our wine and boarded a chartered bus for the ride back to Palo Alto. I'll do a full write up soon.

The Return

I slept well last night. The rain beating on the windows here at the Napa Valley Redwoods Inn, a large indulgent meal of French Cuisine (more on that later), and truly the best ride of my life all combined to knock me out soundly. 

There's so much to say, beginning with so many people to thank. Too many to name. My friends at Competitive Cyclist not only ensured that my bike was tuned to PROfection, but many of them deserve a lot of credit for imbuing me with passion for the spirit and culture of cycling, without which I would not be here. It has been said in a slightly different context that "it's not about the bike," but I would add the qualifier that it's not about the bike "per se." And the good people at Competitive Cyclist know the details of bikes and bike culture with the same acumen. 

My friend Andy Clark, who has gone out of his way to make high end cycling available to me for years, deserves so many thanks. He teaches me to this day from his many years of bike racing and bike riding experience, and I am always eager to soak it all up. Andy made the Rapha ride happen for me, both by dealing with some of the logistics and perhaps more importantly by indirectly teaching me why something like this is so important to do if ever given the opportunity. On top of that, he has quickly become a very close friend, and for that I am most grateful.

My family, and my friends: I got so many birthday wishes yesterday, and thank you all! Your love and support have enabled all my successes in life, and this no exception. 

My father looked at this opportunity, knew that I had a chance to do so many extraordinary things, and simply made it happen. His generosity toward me is and always has been without bounds, but I must say that he wasn't just showering me with this gift (again, "per se"). He was using his hard work to connect a life passion with the chance of a lifetime. Cycling has brought us even closer in the past couple of years, and it is my expectation that we will continue to ride together for as long as possible, but I sincerely hope that I'll be reading about his experience in the next Rapha ride. Nobody deserves such a wonderful experience more than he does.

My beautiful wife. She sacrificed so much for me to be here on this trip. Just in terms of important days, 1) A post-test party she planned, 2) Valentine's Day the very next night, 3) my birthday two days later. She has understood from the beginning how special this chance has been for me, and hasn't hesitated to encourage me to do it all. As always, she is willing to give of herself for me, and for her unconditional love I am eternally grateful. 

Well, I've got to get my stuff packed so that I don't miss my flight (... and have to stay here ... hmm). It's significantly more complex to travel with a bike and all of the gear. 

I looked down at the fading Rapha stamp on my hand from the party yesterday and initially thought that I might try to avoid washing the back of my hand to keep from rubbing it off, but then I thought about how the stamp can be thought of as a representation of the end of the trip. It has been nothing short of amazing, beginning to end, but now it is really time to get home. I thought before that I would long for the experience to continue, but I'm actually very much at peace with drawing the whole thing to a close. I did everything I set out to do, and now it's time to go home.

G'night everyone

I've got to rest - Good night everyone. I'll try and put together some compilation pieces tomorrow. I've got to get to Sacramento with enough time to return my rental car and then make it to the gate. I wish it wasn't really over. 

Rapha spread

Don't just take my word for it ...

Finished ride

The Rapha Gentlemen's ride was amazing, not least of all because these are the people that spare no expense on their bikes. My aluminum Cervelo was a basic model by these standards (though nobody questioned it, as to do so would be from behind, today). The most common frame choice by those unrestricted? Moots Vamoots, by far. I'd say nearly 40% of the frames on this trip were Moots. There's got to be something to that.

What a day

Rapha knows how to do it. We finished our ride in Santa Cruz, and despite some confusion about where to go immediately after (owing in part to our "unexpectedly rapid" pace), we eventually made it to VinoCruz wine bar. Here, Rapha had a meal that was as epic as any ride. Cubed sushi grade salmon, edemame, hummus, mustard and pretzels, and cheese galore. This was how we watched the finish to stage 2 of the ToC, with wines to boot. Simply amazing. I had a Santa Crus pinot noir, which hit the very much vacant spot.

Prager Port

Go to Napa, find Prager Winery and Port Works, drink, repeat.

Beth and I have a dollar on the wall, you should too.

Cin cin, my friends

What a day

What a day. I started in Calistoga, and now I'm having a beer at the famous Rogue Public House. A chipotle ale, of all things. I love how beer can take so many forms in the hands of those willing to try. Another example of thinking outside the box.

I thought I was going to eat here, but there are literally dozens of restaurants in walking distance, and despite the rain, I am determined to make the most of my trip. Besides, beer food just won't sit well on my tummy tomorrow (for that matter, neither will this spicy beer) and I've got a hard 65 miles from Palo Alto to Santa Cruz. Just ask Lance. This weather is taking the steam out of everyone. I'd be lying if I said that it's going to be easy. The fun will be finishing, for sure.

I've got another 10 or 15 miles to the next stop, then it's early to bed, early to rise. I've got to be at Palo Alto Bicycles before a 7:30 departure. That means air in tubes, water in bottles, ready to roll. I'm going to earn my fig rolls tomorrow.

I passed the Rock Racing and QuickStep team cars on 101 coming to SF. It's pretty cool to see sports wagons with $35000 worth of bikes on the roof blazing down the road. And they drive at the same pace in non race conditions. 90 MPH is a conservative estimate for the speed of the QuickStep wagon passing me. Speaking of Rock Racing: they are definitely the bad boys of racing, but they are a facet of domestic racing that everyone loves to see (even if they love to hate them). The team Escalade was surrounded by onlookers the entire day of the prologue, which is no different from my experience this summer in Philly. And while the kits fall somewhere near electric on a scale of flashy to obscene, the cool factor is undeniable. The skull and cross bones "take no prisoners" image can be confused with undue confidence, but I tend to regard the image of Rock Racing as an attempt to break open the stiff tradition of cycling. They are fresh and new, for the sake of it. I like that idea. They challenge peculiar traditions that have entrenched over time, and at the very least ask us to revaluate why certain things are so. You don't have to sport slime green and black to support the "nothing is too sacred" approach. If you can buy into the Vaughterian notion of redeeming cycling through change, at least give Rock Racing credit for staking everything on that very premise. Everything to lose, not much to gain outside of pride. I sincerely hope that they are able to maintain sponsorship for a few more years. If today's result is any indication, they are a worthy adversary for international competition. Chapeau, RR.

Enough commentary. Everyone, hold a drink high, and let's touch glasses to the notion of change. Tomorrow will be a beautiful and different day for us all.

Wet dog shakes

Today's ride was really, really, nasty. The roads are gritty. The rain was almost constant. The winds howled. 

I love it.

I got to ride my bike through Napa Valley.

I couldn't shoot much because of the rain. My gloves were soaked through with a couple of minutes, and it was just too hard to work through them. Here's a phone shot during a brief pause in the rain. I ditched the rain coat (attempting to will the rain away) and snapped a few pics, but I don't have much hope for anything spectacular. The rain picked back up - why bother putting the coat back on over a rainy kit? - and so the rest will come from the warm confines of the Camry. I'm off for another coffee to warm up. Next stop, wine tasting. Then lunch at Oakville Grocery. 

I miss my wife more now than ever before. This is most definitely our place.

I'll try and get back before leaving. The tour comes through in a couple of hours, and then I'm off to San Francisco. I hope my gear dries out before tomorrow's ride, but it almost doesn't matter if the rain keeps up through the morning.

Dinner last night

I went to Jolie restaurant in Calistoga on recommendation, and it did not disappoint. I won't pretend that I'm a restaurant/food critic (my wife, however, could do it easily and elegantly), but this place was simply good. The "simplicity" was actually the emphasis: food from the farm to the table. I wasn't amazed by the service, but this shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone who knows what I think about service in the restaurant industry. The ambiance was plain but it had a warmth that emanated as much from the well-worn wooden bar and tasteful lighting as it did from the ambiance of the crowd that was largely local. Locals were easy to spot - they all wore jeans. 

Perhaps my favorite part was the small portioning. I love small portions at a restaurant. Less is more, you know. And this no more true than in a meal where flavors are orders of magnitude more rich and flavorful than anything I make at home. All you need is a little bit to appreciate why it's worth the price, not a quantitative balance. That's a fast-food approach: "more for your money." 

The meal was great, but I won't even both making recommendations other than to pair wine with the same mentality. One glass is all you need to appreciate a wine and food combo, then move on. It allows you to try significantly more variety and pairings, and then at the end of the meal you can actually drive home.

Ciao for now, my friends.

Prologue Preview

There's so much to show that I'm going to have to wait until I get back from my ride. Busy day again. Enjoy this preview and know that much much more is coming. The yellowy blur is a hint of the next stop on my journey.

"Welcome to my airport"

Safely in Sacramento

After two flights, a few delays, and a long layover, I'm here in Sacramento. I'm staying at the Super 8 just a few blocks from the AACTD conference, which is not too far from the start of the prologue. The hotel was a good price (much better than the embassy suites) and they advertised a continental breakfast and free wi-fi. Of course, you do get what you pay for. The breakfast, although unavailable until 7:00, is already sitting out in the lobby area, and by "free wi-fi" they mean that the helpful guy at the front desk will give you the password to the nearby Days Inn network. Classy.

My luggage (read: bike) made it just fine. I haven't actually checked it, but the bag is here and there is nothing I could tonight if in fact something did get damaged. I'm just thrilled that all of the rate limiting steps have been made without a problem. With my bike, my clothes, and an efficient Toyota, I'm going to travel across the bay area and back without depending on anyone else. Also great: my bike fits, in bag, in the back seat of the rental. Win. Now I don't have to disassemble and reassemble it on the way back to the airport. Assuming again that everything is intact, I'm amazed by this case.

The George Bush Intercontinental Airport was a bit disappointing. I guess I'm just used to DFW, which has so much more to do. The restaurants choices were weak and there was no interesting shopping (except for the iPod/PSP vending machines - I spent more time flipping through those ridiculous as spontaneous options than any other store). Worst of all, no wi-fi. My hope is that I can use down time to keep this blog rolling, and those hours would have been nice to put toward getting some of the details in order. I did feel slightly better about the experience when I came across a life-sized statue of Bush the Elder in what appeared to be a fashion model representation, with jacket being flung over his shoulder and neck tie whipping the in breeze. GB meets GQ.

Arighty, time for bed. This guy is exhausted. I'll be up a few, and then in conference for several hours. Look for more then.

Departing Little Rock ...

First flight is to Houston. More to come.